Articles

Energy Efficiency/Modern Technology and the Historic Home

By David Rubin, AIA

With the recent interest in developing energy efficient homes, many people are attempting to modernize historic homes to the comforts of today. New and old technologies can be applied to our homes without compromising historic character and creating new problems. Home building technology has evolved significantly in the past 100 years, with new low maintenance materials, climate control ventilation, insulation products, glazing technology, lighting options, and computerized systems. We see these products all around us and look for ways to incorporate them into our homes.

Historic homes were designed to breathe, with large overhangs, exposed rafter tails, lap siding, no insulation in the wall cavity, and plaster on lathe interior walls. There is no doubt that they breathe. In fact, air and moisture move very easily through them. That?s good because we like moisture and air to be able to escape and dry out.

The lure of low maintenance vinyl or aluminum siding is too tempting for many homeowners. However attempting to impose this new technology on an historic home often creates new problems, trapping moisture, encouraging infestation and destroying historic character. Original wood siding is irreplaceable and beautiful. By getting on a maintenance schedule, and keeping your home scraped, primed and painted that beautiful wood siding can last for years to come and let your structure continue to breathe not suffocate.

Insulating historic homes is also a challenge, especially in exterior wall cavities. New mineral wool blown-in insulation in the attic can be very effective and economical.

While It may be tempting to rip out those leaking wood single pane windows and replace them with brand new insulated windows, the fact remains that historic wood windows are one of the most important character defining architectural features of the home. Learn to take one apart, wax the jambs, re-rope the window weights, tighten the trim, caulk/repaint and replace the glazing with double strength glass. You may find this as an enjoyable weekend project. You can also incorporate new window films to reduce heat gain on windows facing sun exposures and increase the strength of the glass. Many of these original windows are double-hung so the top frame pulls down. This is a great way to ventilate the home.

Interior lighting offers options for energy savings that can be as easy as changing a light bulb. Consider changing from incandescent lamps to fluorescent and compact fluorescent bulbs. Also consider tankless natural gas water heating or solar systems, bring back the natural gas cooking appliances and replace the old electric ranges.

Have your old masonry fireplace inspected, if you get thumbs up, enjoy it. Take full advantage of the high ceilings, double-hung windows and ceiling fans common in historic houses. By relying more often on them for ventilation, you can reduce air conditioning costs. Install a computerized programmable thermostat that controls the temperature every hour everyday to minimize run time and maximize efficiency.

Historic houses have some of the simplest inherent designs for efficiency, be sure to take advantage of them. Finding a balance of old and new technology can produce a very comfortable, beautiful and energy efficient historic home.

Meet Our New Neighbor!

By Kim McCole

Vintage Inc.If you haven't had the chance to stop in our new neighborhood shop, "Vintage, Inc.", located at 201 McDonald Street, now would be a great time to do so! You will meet the charming owner, Angie Suarez, who opened her shop on August 1, 2007. She chose this historical, 1100 sq. ft. corner space, because she felt that it was a "good marriage" for her wares to be showcased in Lakeland's first shopping strip center which was built in the 1920's. She appreciated the fact that the building still maintains its' original charm and character. Together, Angie and her husband, Will, completely refurbished the space. They brought the walls back to their original brick and plaster and also kept the original fixtures, windows, and doors to the building. It was important to Angie to maintain the integrity of the historical building.

"Vintage, Inc.", is a dream come true for Angie, whose professional background includes owning an ad agency, publishing, and writing a book. She describes the ambiance of her shop as "Anthropologie meets Pottery Barn - with a twist". Indeed, the shop is filled with affordable and eclectic pieces, gathered from around the country and also from Europe. Angie works with several designers, one of them receiving national publicity in "Cottage Living" magazine. She also has on hand several custom pieces made out of architectural salvage and reclaimed wood, such as old barn flooring. She loves featuring repurposed treasures and enjoys inspiring her customers to think "outside of the box" when it comes to decorating their homes.

Angie offers a "Search and Rescue" service in which she will hunt down items for her customer's specific styles and needs; such as, mid-century modern, shabby chic, french country, industrial chic, etc. Her future plans for her shop include designating a special corner for her customers to relax and enjoy browsing through her personal books for more inspiration and resources.

Angie is very appreciative of the warm and neighborly reception that she has received from our historic neighborhood so far. She will be hosting an Open House during the first part of November. Please treat yourself to a visit to "Vintage, Inc" and you will be very glad that you did.

"Vintage, Inc."
201 McDonald Street
Lakeland, Florida
Open Tuesday - Saturday
11 to 5

Hurricane Preparations

With blue tarps still dotting out neighborhood we hate to even mention the "H" word, but we must.

The official hurricane season is from June 1st to December 1st. With one month behind us only one named storm has developed. And thankfully, it passed by Florida showering us with rain only. But who can forget last year's 3-punch hit to Polk County?

Here, from the American Red Cross website, www.redcross.org, is information you should know.

What is a Hurricane WATCH and WARNING?

WATCH: Hurricane conditions are possible in the specified area of the WATCH, usually within 36 hours. This is time to fill your gas tank, check your supply of batteries, canned food, drinking water and medications.

WARNING: Hurricane conditions are expected in the specified area of the WARNING, usually within 24 hours. Be alert for tornadoes that are often on the fringes of the storm. Stay away from flood waters. If not evacuating, remain indoors, in the center of your home away from doors and windows.

Prepare a Personal Evacuation Plan (or perhaps 2 plans).

Since the storms take unpredictable turns you should have more than one destination in mind. Identify ahead of time where you could go if you are told to evacuate. Choose several places - a friend's home in another town, a motel, or a shelter.

Keep the telephone numbers of these places handy as well as a road map of your locality. You may need to take alternative or unfamiliar routes if major roads are closed or clogged.

Listen to NOAA Weather Radio or local radio or TV stations for evacuation instructions. If advised to evacuate, do so immediately.

If you must evacuate, take these items with you:

  • Prescription medications and medical supplies
  • Car keys and maps
  • Bedding and clothing, including sleeping bags and pillows
  • Bottled water, battery-operated radio and extra batteries, first aid kit, flashlight.
  • Documents including driver's license, Social Security card, proof of residence, insurance policies, wills, deeds, birth and marriage certificates, tax records, etc.

Assemble a Disaster Supply Kit if you are remaining in your home. Contents:

  • First-Aid kit and essential medications
  • Canned food and can opener
  • Three gallons of water per person
  • Rain gear, bedding and sleeping bags
  • Battery powered radio, flashlight and extra batteries
  • Special items for infants or elderly [and pets]
  • Written instructions on how to turn off gas, water, electricity - if you are directed to do so by authorities

Prepare for High Winds

Install hurricane shutters or purchase precut 1/2" plywood for each window. Install anchors for the plywood and pre-drill holes in the plywood so that they can be putt up quickly.

Remove diseased and damaged limbs from trees to make them more wind resistant. Strategically removing branches will help wind blow through them.

Tie down or remove lawn furniture, trash cans, hanging plants, outside decorations and BBQs.

What to do After the Hurricane has passed:

  • Keep listening to NOAA Weather Radio or local radio or TV stations for instructions
  • If you evacuated, return home ONLY when local officials tell you it safe to do so
  • Inspect your home for damage
  • Use flashlights in the dark; do NOT use candles
  • Call professionals to come turn on utilities
  • Never run a generator in the house

Information for Children: Check with the library for books for children. FEMA also has coloring books and activity books designed specifically to teach about hurricanes.

These articles were submitted by: Richard Chad of Historic Building Products.
1502 E. Columbus Dr.
Tampa, Fl 33605
(813) 241-6959

Casting Carved Wood

Use this technique for replacing small damaged relief carvings or broken table legs.

Remove the broken part and a matching good part. Spray the matching part with cooking spray. Mix up some Bondo (available at auto parts stores). And place in a tray that is slightly larger than the part. Press the matching part into the Bondo so that the flat side is even with the surface. Let set until dry and gently pry out the part.

Spray the newly created mold with cooking spray and press freshly mixed Bondo into place. Let set until dry. Remove the cast part and sand until smooth. The cast part is then attached and painted to match. For varnished finishes, faux wood grain may be added by painting the cast piece with thin lines of brown paint before varnishing.

Creative Re-use Ideas

Make a room divider by taking two old wood shutters (at least 60 inches tall) and hinging together using two antique door hinges.

Make a garden trellis by placing two ?? iron pipes in the ground and using zip ties to secure a section of antique wrought iron fencing.

Make a headboard by securing a section of wooden porch rail (with spindles) between two newel posts. Anchor the bed frame to the posts.

Make wainscotting by taking old wood five panel doors and securing them sideways to the walls of a room. Place a cap rail on the top edge or use a router to trim off the door edge.

Make a decorative mirror by finding an inexpensive antique exterior door with damage to the bottom, cutting the door in half and replacing the window with a mirror.

Installing a Salvaged Mantle

Be aware of your local City ordinance regarding the distance required between a firebox and a wooden mantle. Place your mantle in the proper position and mark the outline on the wall. Locate the vertical 2? x 4? studs in the wall by looking for nail heads or by using a stud finder available in most hardware stores. Most mantles will be wide enough to be secured to three studs.

Determine the length of the nail or screw by adding the thickness of the mantle to the thickness of the drywall or plaster and multiply this sum by two. After nailing the mantle to the studs, countersink the heads with a nail set and hide them with a dab of color putty. If using screws, countersink them in an shallow 3/8? diameter hole and hide them with a 3/8? diameter plug that has been stained and finished to match the mantle.

If the mantle is larger than the firebox opening, there will be some exposed drywall or plaster between the mantle and the firebox. Fill in this area with a fireproof material such as marble or ceramic tile.

Re-Glazing Wood Windows

Carefully remove all glass, glazing and/or caulk from the wood frame using a putty knife or painter?s 5 in 1 tool. Scrape the channel until it is free of all debris. Measure the opening, allowing 1/8 inch in either direction. Have a glass shop cut the new pane or panes.

Place the glass in the opening and secure with glazing points (small clips which are pressed into the frame with a putty knife). Roll some window glazing (a putty-like compound available at most hardware stores) between your hands until it forms a ? inch log. Place the log on the edge of the glass over the glazing points and press into place with a putty knife or a glazing tool. The bead of glazing should be ? inch thick. Allow to dry one to two hours and smooth out the finish. Let the glazing compound cure for one to two weeks prior to painting.

Replacing a Damaged Floor Board

Cut out the old floor board by running a circular saw several times along the length of the board and prying out the pieces with a wood chisel. Take care not to cut the tongue out of the adjacent board. If only a portion of the board is bad, score across the board with a utility knife, then use a chisel to cut through the depth of the wood before using the circular saw.

Cut a new board to length and trim off the tongue. Fit the groove of the new board into the tongue of the adjacent board and tap into place with a rubber mallet. Sink two finish nails into either end of the new board and one finish nail along the groove side of the board for every two feet of length. Counter-sink the nail heads with a nail set and fill the holes with wood putty.

Sand the board, finishing with 220 grit, apply stain (if necessary) and three coats of finish to match the existing floor.

Restoring Antique Door Hardware

Remove door knobs by unscrewing the set screw on the side of one knob and removing this knob from the shaft by either pulling or unscrewing. Pull the remaining knob and shaft out from the other side of the lock.

Remove mortise locks by unscrewing the two screws on the face of the lock and by prying the body out of its opening. Remove the catch by unscrewing the two screws that secure it to the jamb. For all screws, use a utility knife to cut away paint lodged in the slot.

Clean and polish all brass components by holding against a fine wire wheel on a bench grinder. Finish by sanding with fine steel wool and lightly spray with a urethane clear coat.

Carefully remove the two or three screws in the side of the lock. Check the spring and replace if necessary. Place a few drops of light machine oil on the interior mechanisms. Make sure the latch is operable by inserting the lock with the attached shaft and turning. Also test the throw bolt by using a skeleton key (available at most key shops) or by manually releasing.

Replace the lock screws making sure not to release the spring and re-install all components.